TVT Gerbil Care Guide
Below is a translated version of the Mongolian Gerbil care guide as well as the small mammal section from the "Accessories Contrary to Animal Welfare" guide provided by the Tierärztliche Vereinigung für Tierschutz (Veterinary Association of Animal Welfare). The page containing the original guides as well as care guides on other species can be found here.​
About the TVT
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The TVT is an organisation based in Germany made up of approximately 1,300 veterinarians and 40 natural scientists. They come from a wide variety of fields and have various specialities from places such as large and small animal practices, veterinary surgeries, zoos, universities and business fields
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They are the only veterinary association in Europe dedicated to animal welfare. They use impartial scientific and evidence based methods to provide reliable information to improve the lives of animals
Supporting information
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As well as the TVT, the UFAW (Universities Federation of Animal Welfare) also promotes a 100x50x50cm minimum enclosure size for gerbils as well as a 25cm minimum bedding depth, supported by the Swiss Animal Protection Ordinance, part of the Animal Welfare Act (2005) in Switzerland
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In the UK, the charity Woodgreen also promote this minimum enclosure size for Mongolian gerbils, as does The Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture in Germany in their Appraisal on minimum requirements for keeping mammals


Biology
The Mongolian gerbil belongs to the genus Meriones, which is known in German as the sand or desert gerbil. It is the most common type of gerbil in pet shops. They originate from Mongolia and Manchuria. Gerbils live in families with close social contact. Therefore, they should not be kept alone. They are active and enjoy digging. They are intermittently active throughout the day. The animals live for 2 to a maximum of 5 years. They reach sexual maturity at 5 to 8 weeks and gestate their young for 24 to 26 days. The pups are weaned after 4 weeks.
As pets, they are best kept in pairs. In larger groups, there is a risk that the animals will not get along throughout their lives. This can result in serious fights, as the animals that are inferior in the hierarchy cannot escape. Therefore, owners must keep larger groups under close observation and, if necessary, separate the animals permanently.
In dangerous situations, gerbils can jump very far. Some breeding lines are prone to epilepsy, which is why they are also kept as laboratory animals.
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Nutrition
Gerbils should be fed on low-fat seeds, supplemented with fresh green forage. A species-appropriate diet also includes animal protein, which is in the form of hard-boiled eggs, dry cat food, or feeder insects (crickets, desert locusts, or similar). Nuts, sunflower seeds, and pumpkin seeds should only be fed in very small quantities as treats, as they are very high in fat. Fruit, bread, and carrots should not be fed, as gerbils are also susceptible to diabetes.
Twigs and branches from unsprayed deciduous trees (willow, poplar, fruit trees) and soft pieces of wood are suitable for natural tooth wearing and to satisfy the urge to gnaw.
Drinking water must always be available. Food should preferably be offered in such a way that the animals can work for it as they would in nature. For example, you can hide it in cardboard tubes, with the ends pressed shut or plugged with hay, or you can scatter it in the fresh bedding. Hanging millet sprays also provide enrichment. Hay and straw can be chewed and also serve as nesting material. Gerbils are prolific hoarders.
Housing
The ideal housing consists of a base tray that is as opaque as possible, with minimum dimensions of 100x50x50cm (LxWxH), and a wire mesh topper at least 30cm high. This is necessary to provide the animals with a sufficiently large and varied habitat. Two animals can be kept in such an enclosure. For each additional animal, the floor space
must be increased by at least 25%. In order to build solid tunnels, the bedding must be at least 40cm deep and should consist of one third small animal bedding, one third hay, and one third straw or paper strips.
The ability to build and use tunnels, as well as completely dark hiding places that can only be reached through a dark or red tube [translator's note: I believe they mean an opaque tube or clear red tube that blocks light] turning around a corner, are among the essential basic needs of gerbils. If these needs are not met, they develop behavioural disorders such as constant digging in corners.
Roots and gnawable materials such as paper, cardboard, and branches keep the rodents occupied and, together with tubes, can serve as structural elements for the construction of underground tunnels and chambers.
A drinking bowl, food bowl, and a sand bath with chinchilla sand are required. These items should be placed on platforms so thye cannot be buried or dug out from underneath.
A wheel that complies with animal welfare regulations (see fact sheet 62, Accessories that violate animal welfare) should be provided, even if not all animals use it. As a general rule, all heavy objects must be secured to prevent tipping over and being dug out from underneath (risk of injury).
When keeping mixed-sex pairs, it should be remembered that gerbils have a high reproduction rate. To prevent uncontrolled breeding, the male animals should be neutered.
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Care
Depending on the size of the enclosure, cleaning should be carried out at least once a month, replacing only soiled bedding and adding or replacing enrichment materials. Food and water bowls must be cleaned daily.
Tame gerbils can be allowed to run free in the room under supervision. The animals may react fearfully, at least initially. Therefore, you need to take your time and remain calm to allow them to explore and then lure them back into their cage. Hazards such as electrical cables, open windows, poisonous plants, etc. must be eliminated and removed.
Gerbils should never be picked up or held by their sensitive tails, as the skin there can tear. The animals should be picked up with your hand from underneath.
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Further animal welfare aspects/special features
Digging in sharp-edged, dry sand (containing quartz) or rubbing against cage bars can cause skin inflammation.
Skin fungal diseases are not uncommon and manifest themselves in hair loss. Treatment by a specialist veterinarian is necessary in these instances. It should be noted that skin fungi are also transmissible to humans. The use of over-the-counter medicines, feed supplements, etc. from pet stores is usually ineffective or harmful.
Adult animals should not be introduced without careful consideration, as animals that are not part of the family will be fought to the death. Introductions must be done very carefully. With young animals up to 6 weeks old, this is usually possible without any problems.
The use of glass enclosures that are closed on all sides is possible, as the animals produce very little urine. Ensure there is good ventilation from above.
The Mongolian gerbil (Meriones ungiculatus) is often referred to as a gerbil. This is incorrect, as gerbils belong to a different genus (Gerbillus) and have different husbandry requirements.
If the housing is too small, there is too little bedding, or there is no completely dark sleeping area, gerbils quickly tend to exhibit stereotypical behaviours such as digging in a corner, gnawing on bars, and running in a wheel for hours on end. Such behavioural disorders are considered to be indicative of significant suffering. As with epilepsy, there are breeding lines whose offspring are more susceptible to such indications.


Animal welfare-unfriendly accessories for small mammals
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1. Cages that are too small
Cages with a floor area of less than 3200cm² (i.e., less than 100 x 50 cm) are unsuitable for the long-term keeping of all currently commercially available small mammals, as they do not provide the animals kept in them sufficient opportunity to move around.
2a. Completely enclosed containers with small ventilation openings in the lid
In such cages, air circulation is severely restricted and the animal's perception of its surroundings is impeded. The animal cannot escape the accumulation of harmful gases at the bottom of the container. Heat can build up. Since the plastic cover prevents harmful gases from escaping to the outside, the animal keeper is less aware of the unpleasant odors, with the result that the need for cleaning may seem less urgent. The accumulation of gases can harm the animal (e.g., pneumonia, mucous membrane irritation, skin damage); under certain circumstances, the accumulation of
odorous substances can lead to disruption of intraspecies communication.
2b. Aquariums
The same applies to aquariums. Only animals from dry regions that produce very little urine, e.g., gerbils, can be kept in aquariums
3. Tube systems
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The packaging of this “hamster toy” clearly illustrates its intended use with pictures: children are encouraged to constantly build changing tube arrangements into which the hamster can then be “inserted.” This forces the animal into stressful situations, usually during its physiological sleep phase during the day, from which it is usually unable to free itself. Vertically
positioned and steeply inclined tubes as well as downward-facing openings also pose a considerable risk of injury. The tubes are neither easy to clean nor sufficiently ventilated. Since they are made of transparent material, there is no place for the animal to hide. These systems have nothing to do with the natural structure of the animals' environment. Exceptions are sufficiently dimensioned (the animal must be able to turn around), well-ventilated, and short tubes that are used, for example, as connecting passages between two cages.​
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​4. Feed racks without covers
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Many small mammals jump into uncovered feed racks and can get stuck and injure themselves when leaving.
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5. Litter treated with fragrances or dyes
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Such material should not be used, as intraspecies communication via odors is disrupted and health impairments cannot be ruled out.
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6. Hamster cotton wool
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Due to its tear-resistant structure, there is a risk of blocking the cheek pouches and constricting limbs (or parts thereof). This also applies to so-called fully digestible hamster cotton wool.
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7. Running wheels
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Running wheels with open spokes should be avoided due to the risk of injury (limbs getting caught).
Recommended: solid surface running wheels.
For exercise wheels that are attached to a cage wall or to a stand on one side, the back of the exercise wheel drum must be closed. Exercise wheels that are attached to a stand with access on both sides can cause injuries due to limbs getting caught between the exercise wheel drum and the stand and should therefore be avoided.
Running wheels must have a diameter of at least 20 cm for dwarf hamsters and at least 30 cm for all other rodents. Smaller diameters can lead to permanent spinal curvature, especially in young animals.
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8. Hamster ball
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These are fully or partially transparent plastic balls of various diameters (10–15 cm) that are equipped with small ventilation slots.
Some manufacturers offer the ball with a stand so that it can be used as a running wheel both in a closed state without the possibility of escape and in a partially open state. Keeping a hamster in such a ball can cause the animal considerable pain, suffering, and injuries. The hamster cannot free itself from the ball, nor is it able to control the speed and direction of the ball's movement through its own activity. Rather, it can be assumed that the animal will experience a stressful situation due to the lack of orientation and the lack of a place to hide, especially in a transparent ball, which will result in further uncontrolled movement of the ball. The animal cannot fulfill its natural need to take cover. In addition, there is a considerable risk of injury to the hamster when the ball collides, e.g. against walls or other solid objects, as well as when the ball falls from elevated surfaces (table, chair, stairs, etc.). The small ventilation slots do not ensure sufficient air supply for the hamster, which is forced into activity and stress. The same applies to comparable hamster toys, e.g., race car wheels. Many hamster toys contain plasticizers. These are released in the stomach and can cause swallowed plastic parts to become sharp-edged foreign bodies. This can lead to internal injuries and digestive disorders.
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9. Harnesses and leashes
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These are completely unsuitable for most rodents, such as guinea pigs, hamsters, or rats, as there is a risk that they will be dragged around (risk of injury). In addition, the suppression of natural escape behaviour causes considerable stress for small mammals. For tame rabbits, they are acceptable in individual cases after careful acclimatization under adult supervision.
Translated with DeepL Translator. Checked and modified for accuracy by u/lavenderfart
